Wednesday 15th May - Art's the Thing

Today's weather forecast is not too bad for the morning but suggests that there will be thunderstorms after lunch. Our plan is to visit the Guggenheim Museum which was built as the centrepiece of the regeneration of Bilbao. They say it has been transformed from Spain's most polluted industrial city to a cultural centre of world renown. Amet's House is a couple of kilometres downstream from the Guggenheim but the ripple effect of gentrification has just about reached there.

There is a wide promenade along the riverside which we follow. This takes us by the Estadio San Mames, home to Athletic Club who are the current holders of La Copa del Rey and fifth in La Liga. 

As we approach the museum the scale of the building becomes apparent. It is huge. We know it is huge because we walk a complete circuit around the ground floor seeking the entrance. The signage is useless and it's not just us because other groups are doing the same circuit. Eventually the only option is to climb a wide flight of stairs which leads to a plaza and another, descending set of stairs to the entrance. It is to be hoped that R isn't carrying her stick when she meets the architect.

We check our bag and the online tickets pass muster so we are in. The exhibit in the main hall is as baffling as finding the entrance. It seems to be a series of walk in and through sculptures made from huge sheets of rusty steel. When seen from a balcony on the level above it makes slightly more sense.

There is plenty of space to exhibit really big pieces of art. One floor is dedicated to PopArt. Even D has heard of Roy Lichtenstein.

The art may not be to everybody's taste but the building is really the star. The views out are quite impressive.

Less impressive is the Cafe/Bar. After a wait we give up and look for somewhere less cultural and more customer friendly. R has been feeling deprived of sardines on this trip so when we see sardines listed on a menu our decision is made. It is a bit early for lunch by Spanish standards but we are welcomed in as the staff prepare for the day. Service is cheerful and efficient and we are soon enjoying a splendid sardine platter each 

As R says, no messing about with potatoes or salad, just the real deal. The restaurant starts to fill up and we are thinking of leaving when our host delivers a slice of strawberry cheesecake for us to share, gratis. This means that the threatened thunderstorm has arrived by the time we leave. We have to seek shelter in a cafe until the worst is over. 

We return to base via a combination of tram and walking. R and her knee have had a sufficiency of ambulatory activity for the time being. She opts for an afternoon in with Lord Peter Wimsey. Hurrah for BBC Sounds.

Our host, Enrique, mentioned that another way to travel into the city is to take the Bilbao commuter train from Obreaga station, about a hundred yards from the house. D is authorised to conduct a reconnaissance at his own risk. 

The station is there, the ticket machine works and there is only a short wait for a train into Bilbao-Abando, the central terminus for the commuter lines. It would appear that graffitiing trains is less popular in the Basque country than it is in Cantabria. The train ride is quicker than the tram but less scenic as it is nearly all in tunnels.

Abando has some impressive stained glass at the terminus end of the train shed. It is also a a fairly short walk to the Casco Viejo (Old Town). D wanders up and down the narrow streets taking photos.

The sun was shining and D opted to walk back to base along the opposite side of the river. This gave even better views of the Guggenheim.

D's luck with the weather ran out on the last half mile of the walk home. There was a cloudburst and he got soaked.

Fortunately the weather improved for the evening and we took the train into the city for more pintxos. The best that we had were in this place.